The Legend of Sellaronda! For many, circumnavigating the Sella Massif by bike represents the ultimate Dolomites challenge, a true bucket list highlight with epic trails and stunning views. The journey is supported by numerous lifts and cable cars. But what if we ride only a section and skip the lifts? Just us, our eMTB, and the mountain. Sounds exciting, right? It is!

What’s on your bucket list when it comes to epic tours? Some dream of shredding trails in Whistler, Canada,the MTB mecca. Others aim to conquer Madeira’s rugged slopes or charge through the mythical Atlas Mountains in Morocco. Then there are those who simply want to find the perfect trail to experience the ultimate sense of freedom. High on the priority list of many sporty nature lovers is the Sellaronda – the circumnavigation of the Sella Massif in the heart of the Dolomites. In summer, it’s a favorite amongst roadies and mountain bikers, while in winter it draws skiers and snowboarders alike.

The MTB route spans 56 to 60 kilometers with up to 4,000 vertical meters, of which 330 to 1,020 meters can be pedaled depending on route variant you choose. The rest? It’s taken care of by the extensive network of lifts and gondolas surrounding one of UNESCO’s stunning World Heritage sites. Fourteen cable cars are strategically placed to connect the route’s four main passes – Gardena Pass, Campolongo Pass, Pordoi Pass, and Sella Pass – providing seamless transitions between trail sections. The lifts make the tour much more manageable – ideal for those wanting to immerse themselves into the mountain landscape without pushing themselves to the limit.

And us? Against the breathtaking backdrop of the Sassolungo and the Sella Group, we’re setting out to create our own personal Sellaronda experience. Our plan: to tackle the Sellaronda entirely without the help of lifts and see how far our eMTBs can take us. Will it work? We’ll find out. But it’s precisely this uncertainty that gets us excited to give it a shot. Dolomites, here we come!

Which Sellaronda Route is Right for You? – Time, Skills, and Fitness Determine Your Choice

Dreaming of riding the Sellaronda but unsure how to tackle it? The different routes offer the perfect challenge for everyone. In addition to the full round trip of the Sella Massif, you can opt for half-day routes that cover only half the distance. This option is the ideal choice for riders starting later in the day or those wanting to enjoy the tour at a more relaxed pace.

For those who want to complete the full loop around the Sella Massif, there are two routes to choose from – clockwise or counterclockwise. Both are well-signposted and pre-planned in numerous Komoot tours. Your choice should depend on your fitness level, skills, and available time. Regardless of the direction, both options promise spectacular views of the Dolomites, including the Marmolada Glacier and the Sella Pass.

If you consider yourself a beginner, it’s better to ride clockwise, as this direction features the easier descents. However, being confident in handling your brakes and gears is essential, as both Sellaronda routes include singletracks and downhill sections. If you’re unsure, local providers or guides can help!

For more experienced riders, there are no restrictions – except perhaps the size of your battery. For e-bike tours, it’s advisable to consider the charging options along the route during your planning. Luckily, there are plenty of those, including in Wolkenstein, Arabba, Canazei, and Corvara.

Clockwise Route:

  • Distance: Approximately 58–60 km.
  • Elevation Gain: Around 4,000 vertical meters, with only 330–400 meters requiring pedaling, as most of the route is supported by lifts.
  • Difficulty Level: Trails are predominantly intermediate (S1–S2), offering a mix of flowing sections and technically challenging passages.
  • Riding Time: Typically between 5 and 9 hours, depending on riding skills and breaks.

Counterclockwise Route:

  • Distance: Approximately 56 km.
  • Elevation Gain: In this direction, around 1,020 meters need to be climbed under your own steam, as fewer lifts are available on the route.
  • Difficulty Level: More challenging than the clockwise option, making it better suited for experienced riders.
  • Riding Time: Between 6 and 9 hours.

We aim to experience the breathtaking landscapes on e-bikes, without relying on lift or gondola support, and then ride back to our MTB-friendly hotel, the Melodia del Bosco, in Alta Badia. Using Komoot, we chose one of the pre-planned half-day tours packed with scenic highlights that have us buzzing with excitement: the mystical Città dei Sassi (City of Stones), stunning views along the path from Plan de Gralba to Wolkenstein, and the cosy Jimmy Hut at the base of the majestic Dolomites. From there, the journey continues to Corvara, following some of the region’s most beautiful trails. Off we go!

A giant’s work? The City of Stones at the Sellajoch marks the impressive beginning of our Sellaronda adventure.
Snow in September – that’s to be expected in the Alps.
Who’s Who? Panoramic views of Piz Sella, the Grödner Pass, and the western side of the Sella Massif.

Sellaronda Tour Start at the City of Stones

Our journey starts at the Passo Sella, just a half-hour drive from our home base in Alta Badia. With a mix of sun and clouds and a pleasant 16°C, it’s hard to imagine a better day in late autumn! From the first few meters, the pass truly hypnotizes us: A winding trail at the foot of the Langkofel leads us through the mystical City of Stones. We’re captivated by the sight of big and small boulders scattered across the landscape as if placed there by giant hands. White mini-gondolas stretch up the mountain like pearls on a string, disappearing between the jagged peaks of the mighty Sassolungo.

Barely over the first ridge, we’re greeted by a beautifully sculpted trail that winds down the mountain amidst moon-like scree fields – yay! The breathtaking Sassolungo backdrop makes us want to take our fingers off the brakes.

At 2,200 meters above sea level, the altitude is evident as we encounter the first snowfields of the autumn season, nestled into the trails. A short section of pushing is required, but we don’t mind – we’re still fresh, and further downhill, the snow has already melted away. There’s even something oddly enjoyable about wading through the first snow of the year. Let’s be real: at 2,200 meters in this region, snow in autumn isn’t exactly a surprise!

We reach the tree line and shortly after arrive at the small Sassolungo Bike Park, which forms part of the Trail Arena Val Gardena. This park offers a total of 13.9 kilometers of trails with varying difficulty levels. At the entrance to the Sassolungo Bike Park, we have two options: the Family Line and the flowy Easy Jump Line. We happily opt for the 2.2 km Easy Jump Trail, which winds 200 vertical meters down to Plan de Gralba. It proves to be a great jump line, enjoyable for beginners and advanced riders alike. Mental note: the next family outing is sorted! Rock climbing in the City of Stones followed by exploring the trails under this breathtaking scenery! Though next time, we’ll use the gondola and lift to make it a bit easier.

No one home – how we’d love to come back tonight, light a fire in the wood stove, and celebrate completing our Sellaronda.

Among Lamborghini Tourists and Road Cyclists, up to the Pass

Yes, that’s right… Today, we’ve decided to forego the lifts entirely. Our eyes fall on the tarmac on the pass road leading up to the Grödner Joch. Should we test this route, the domain of road cyclists and motorcyclists? To maintain a bit of dignity among the mostly unmotorized roadies, we set ourselves a personal challenge: tackling the serpentine curves with as little motor assistance as possible. The first few dozen vertical meters from Plan de Gralba go smoothly, our e-bikes humming quietly as we pass the steeply-sloping Dolomite cliffs. The autumn scent of larches, whose needles are already turning yellow, fills the air. But the pass road seems endless, and our legs grow heavier.

Thankfully, a welcome distraction arrives: a convoy of rental Lamborghinis overtakes us, all driven by men of apparent East Asian descent. They’ve clearly booked one of the luxury tours offered to affluent tourists in the Dolomites. Relieved that we’re not the only motor-assisted travelers appreciating the stunning Sella Massif, we discreetly increase our motor support and latch onto the Sunday drivers for a moment. Soon, however, we branch off onto a section of the Sella MTB route, climbing towards the Gardena Pass. The technical uphill stretches demand the most from our motors – and our legs – yet again.

By now, the charge status bars both on our displays and in our bodies are noticeably depleted. The outside temperature feels colder with every gained meter of altitude, but so does our anticipation for a break and a warm meal at the Jimmy Hut. Of course, we could have reached it effortlessly using the Florianbahn lift. But doesn’t the Kaiserschmarrn taste infinitely better when you truly earned it?

Just a few more twists of the trail…
…and then we’re indulging in spinach dumplings and surrounded by hunting trophies, all steeped in South Tyrolean alpine charm.
Hut party or trails? Why not both!

As soon as we’re back on the bikes, the phenomenal scenery takes our breaths again. Rugged Jurassic peaks, so quintessentially Dolomitic, rise above meadows and forests threaded with trails and hiking paths. It’s crystal clear why the Sellaronda is such a magnet for both summer and winter sports enthusiasts. We push through the remaining vertical meters using the last bars of our e-bike batteries and then cruise comfortably back down into the valley towards Alta Badia. The temperature rises, and the hospitality is just as hearty as it was at the Jimmy Hut. Our takeaway: In just over two hours of pure riding time and 736 meters of gained elevation, we’ve completed half the Sellaronda and covered 33 kilometers of breathtaking landscapes. Thanks to our e-bikes, we’re not even exhausted!

Our conclusion: even without a lift or a gondola, the Sellaronda tour is easily manageable with an e-bike and Komoot, even if you aren’t an extreme cyclist or an experienced tour planner. The route is packed with flowing trails, with the breath-taking landscape of the Dolomites as backdrop. We’re hooked and will definitely come back next year. But next time, the “Halfaronda” will definitely become the full Sellaronda, and another item on our bucket list will be checked off! We can’t wait!

For more information about the Sellaronda and other recreational activities in the region, visit the Alta Badia Tourism Association.

Words: Felicia Nastal Photos: Peter Walker